The simply answers are Yes surge protectors work (but only provide protection against
surges), your surge protection needs depend on what you want to protect, and when selecting a surge protector it should be third party tested by a reputable laboratory for safety and performance testing at minimum!
Now for the detailed explanations!
Surge protectors in fact "work." But there is a mis-perception of
how they work / what they do. Surge protectors only safeguard against surges. A surge protector almost always fails when subjected to the impact of a direct lightning strike (nothing can prevent a direct lightning strike) and most certainly fails if the utility losses its Neutral reference.
In order to achieve full protection of your home's electrically connected equipment you must use
Whole Home Surge Protection strategies. If you want to protect electronics then point-of-use plug-in surge protectors will do the job. But for all your equipment that is hard wired or does not use a typical 110v plug then you need a
surge protector at your electrical panel. Don't forget to protect your
phone and
coaxial connections. These connections are a source for
surge damage too.
When you are selecting any surge protector it is important that it has been tested according to the UL 1449 3rd Edition requirements for surge protection. All manufacturers UL listings are available for review on the UL website. Just because there is a UL hologram sticker on a product doesn't mean that it has been tested to this standard.
Be careful not to confuse panel mount surge protector (Surge Protective Device, SPD) listed products with outdated Secondary Surge Arrestor (aka Lightning Arrestors) products produced previous to the major UL standard change that the industry saw back in Sept 2009.
When comparing surge protectors it is important to consider both the surge current capacity and clamping voltage to determine the performance of the surge protector. Please reference
“What is surge current capacity?” and
“What is clamping voltage?”
For point-of-use plug-in devices you want a clamping voltage of no more than 400V L-N (330v is the best you can get) and for your electrical panel 600V or 700V is a good rating for L-N. For point-of-use plug-in protectors you want protection on modes L-N, L-G and N-G but on the panel L-N and L-G protection is sufficient. N-G protection isn't necessary at the home's main electrical panel because of the fact that N-G are bonded at your service entrance so that they are electrically the same.
What surge current capacity is appropriate for your equipment to be protected can be objective. Any thing over 10,000 Amps is acceptable. Higher numbers in surge current capacity imply redundancy and should NOT be mis-perceived as being able to handle the effects of say a 1,000,000 Amp lightning strike.
BEWARE OF JOULE RATINGS. Joule ratings are nonsensical for choosing surge protectors.
|
DON'T DO THIS! It's not safe. |
Be cognitive of the failure mode of your surge protectors. What happens when they no longer are protecting you? For point-of-use protectors select a series connected device or even a parallel device with an audible alarm. If a LED light simply extinguishes when the surge protection elements go bad you may not observe the light being out and your electronics can be damaged as a result of you not replacing the surge protector. Also, do not
daisy chain surge protectors! You shouldn't be overloading the circuit in the first place. If your outlets
aren't grounded you cannot use an adapter.
For panel mounted devices we recommend a parallel device with an audible alarm. You want your electricity to still be "on" even if you are unprotected but you want to be notified immediately when you aren't. Again if you don't observe a status light extinguished on your surge protector your electrical equipment can be damaged without you realizing it until you've investigated after the fact.